The Salty Truth

Salt is the latest nutrient under fire. Health advocates are clamoring for regulations to address public health issues and the food industry is balking due to the challenges associated with making processed foods taste good with less (or no) salt. Despite the fact that we’ve known for more than 30 years about the link between excess sodium intake (salt is 40% sodium and 60% chloride) and high blood pressure (a risk factor for heart disease and stroke), little has been done to reduce the amount of salt in processed foods found both in restaurants and on grocery shelves.

One problem is that processed food doesn’t taste or look as good without salt. In addition to preserving food, salt provides and enhances natural flavors, covers up bitter and other unpleasant flavors that may be present in foods, and contributes to both the texture and color of many processed foods. As we have increased the amount of restaurant, packaged, and other processed foods we eat over the past few decades we have acquired quite a taste for the salty stuff. (By the way – this tidbit of info is important. We have acquired a taste for excessive amounts of salt…we aren’t born with this hankering.)

A recent NY Times article gave a fascinating account of the food industry’s struggles with the whole salt issue, past and present. (It’s a good read if you have a few minutes and an interest in the subject.) But what I found most interesting about the latest industry response is that they claim the only way to reduce the salt in many processed foods without sacrificing flavor (and in many cases texture and color) is to use more expensive ingredients. Of course this would dip into industry profits and probably still raise the price of these foods for us consumers. But wouldn’t that make all of the highly engineered and processed foods that have been tempting people away from healthier foods more in line with the “true cost” of such foods?

 These hidden costs of processed foods include both health and environmental impacts. All of that processing requires energy and wide range of resources. Unfortunately, when we draw attention to the fact that our food supply needs a lift in terms of quality and it may be time to pay the “true cost” of such foods the elitism accusations start flying. It is a disturbing reality that many of our country’s poorest people do not have access to fresh foods or cannot afford them even when available. This situation is criminal and though it’s currently being addressed in some places, this problem definitely needs more attention.

In the meantime, for those of us who have access to whole or minimally processed foods (like the incredible selection at the Jackson Whole Grocer!) the salt issue provides added incentive to make changes. The food industry is making some effort to lower the sodium content of some processed foods so if we choose these options when we do buy packaged and processed foods we will spur their efforts along. Now that the growing season is upon us in the mountains (or close anyway) we can re-train our palates to enjoy the inherently flavorful fresh foods from gardens, farmers markets (including the in-store farmer’s market at the JWG), CSAs, grocery stores, and restaurants that feature these foods. Because the industry representatives are right about one thing – higher quality ingredients is what makes food taste good!

Post contributed by Mary Howley Ryan, MS, RD – see Nutritionality page for more information about Mary’s credentials

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